Tag: CheatCards
Cross-stitch & fractionals
Bullion stitch
Tied Oblong stitch
Before you start, anchor the thread to a nearby stitch, on the back of the fabric, using the loop method (if you’re stitching with 2 strands of cotton). If you’re stitching with 1 strand only, then stitch a couple of knots around the back of a nearby stitch.
1 Start with stitching a cross-stitch, just as you would a sandard one, except that this one is elongated: it’s 3 times as long as a standard cross-stitch. Its size may vary from pattern to pattern, but in this example, it stretches over 2 x 6 threads of linen (or 1 x 3 aida blocks, depending on your choice of fabric).
2 Once the long cross-stitch is done, bring the needle back up to the right side of the fabric, to the right-hand side of the stitch, at mid-height. Stitch a horizontal backstitch across the oblong stitches to secure the long cross into place.
Fancy seeing it stitched in action? Here’s a short video:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns to do just that:
Shall we recap?
Happy stitching!
Rhodes Octagon stitch
Before you start, anchor the thread to a nearby stitch, on the back of the fabric, using the loop method (if you’re stitching with 2 strands of cotton). If you’re stitching with 1 strand only, then stitch a couple of knots around the back of a nearby stitch.
1 I normally like to finish Rhodes stitches with the vertical stitch, as it creates a much nicer finish. For the octagon variation, I think it looks a little odd, and I prefer to have a slanted stitch on top. It’s up to you, really. Either way, to get the starting point for the stitch, we need to rewinding back from the final stitch, whichever one you want that to be… I’ve opted for the following version:
Let’s get started, then: bring the needle out where the first stitch starts (1) and (looking at the full octagon stitch) work out where the first stitch ends (2). There’s our first diagonal stitch. The next step is another diagonal stitch, which lies over the previous one, slightly slanted clockwise:
2 Keep going clockwise, making sure the stitches are as neat as possible, each overlapping the previous one and keeping the tension as even as possible so that none of the stitches are looser than the others. You really want to be using a hoop or a stitching frame for this.
3 Place the last stitch to finish the octagon, and tie the thread at the back of the stitch:
Fancy seeing it stitched in action? Here’s a short video:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns do to just that:
Shall we recap?
Happy stitching!
Rhodes Heart stitch
Before you start, anchor the thread to a nearby stitch, on the back of the fabric, using the loop method (if you’re stitching with 2 strands of cotton). If you’re stitching with 1 strand only, then stitch a couple of knots around the back of a nearby stitch.
1 The key to finishing any Rhodes stitch variation neatly is to save the vertical stitch for the very end. So to get the starting point for the stitch, we need to rewinding back from the final stitch… and that gives us the first bottom left stitch of the heart:
Let’s get started, then: bring the needle out at the bottom left corner (1) and (looking at the full heart stitch) work out where the first stitch ends (2). There’s our first diagonal stitch. The next step is another diagonal stitch, which lies over the previous one, slightly slanted clockwise:
2 Keep going clockwise, making sure the stitches are as neat as possible, each overlapping the previous one and keeping the tension as even as possible so that none of the stitches are looser than the others. You really want to be using a hoop or a stitching frame for this.
3 By the time you reach the last stitch, the heart is so packed together that you may find it tricky to see the last few holes. In that case, use a finger or another needle to gently nudge the previous stitches out of the way, so that you can see the relevant holes in the fabric:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns to do just that:
Shall we recap?
Happy stitching!
Lazy Daisy stitch
This very delicate stitch is best stitched in 1 strand, especially if it’s small, to keep it neat and well defined. But it can also work well with more strands, especially if the stitch is quite large, or if you want to make a bolder statement. Let’s look at how to stich it:
1 Bring the needle up to the front of the fabric where you want the base of the petal to be (ie. A on the picture below). Then create a loop with the thread (step 1), and push the needle through to the back of the fabric in A again. Bring the needle back up to the front of the fabric where you want the tip of the petal to be (B), making sure that the needle comes up inside the thread loop (step 2):
2 Pull the needle out, making sure that you gently tighten the loop: don’t over-tighten it so that the petal has a nice oval shape. Once you’re happy with the look of the petal, push the needle back through to the back of the fabric in the next available hole (C) to pin the tip of the stitch into place:
Fancy seeing it stitched in action? Here’s a short video:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns to do just that:
-
Daisy BiscoBourse -
Seasonal Wreaths (set of 4) -
Wintry Blooms Tissue Case -
Wintry Blooms Biscornu -
Victorian Christmas Humbug -
Love Biscornu -
Butterfly Needlebook -
Winter Wreath -
Butterfly Scissor Case -
Love Bookmark -
Butterfly Biscornu -
Love Humbug -
Victorian Christmas Frame -
Sweet Heart Sachet -
Sweet Heart Bookmark
Shall we recap?
Happy Stitching!
Round Eyelet stitch
Plain Round Eyelet:
1 This stitch is best stitched in 1 strand only, so you’ll need to anchor the thread behind a nearby stitch. We’re going to work it from the centre outwards, because it’s easier to count the threads of fabric this way:
2 Bring the needle back up in the centre of the stitch (#1 on the diagram above) and stitch the next diagonal stitch. Keep going, clockwise, always coming back up through the middle.
3 Fasten the thread at the back of the eyelet by weaving it through the stitches at the back a few times and securing it with a couple of little knots. Find out how to do so here.
Sequin variation:
1 Even more so than the plain eyelet, the sequin variation must be stitched in 1 strand only, so that the sequin shows through the stitch and the hole of the sequin doesn’t get too crowded with thread. As for the plain version, anchor the thread behind a nearby stitch before you start. Now the stitch starts to differ: rather than working from the centre outwards, work from the outside of the stitch inwards. This is because of the sequin: it’s much easier to push the needle through the small hole of the sequin from the front (where you can see what you’re doing) than it is from the back (where you’re a bit blind). Also make sure you place the sequin so that it curves downwards against the fabric. This will allow the stitches to lie flat against the curved sequin, rather than be stretched over its hollow side.
2 Proceed clockwise, still always working from the outside of the stitch back to the centre. Finish the stitch, and tuck the thread at the back of the stitch using the same method as for the plain eyelet.
Fancy seeing it stitched in action? Here’s a short video:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns to do just that:
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Zoe Box -
Anthea Floral Calendar pattern -
Lizzie Stitching Wallet -
Peacock Stitching Set -
Nerida Stitching Wallet SAL -
Daisy BiscoBourse
-
Christie Mini Frames (set of 6) -
Cherry Blossom Cushion -
Lilac Stitching Set -
Zoe Pincushion & Weights SAL pattern -
Wintry Blooms Tissue Case
-
Wintry Blooms Biscornu
-
Victorian Christmas Humbug
-
Wisteria Biscornu -
Marie-Annick Book Cover pattern
Shall we recap?
Happy stitching!
Knots: French vs Colonial
The result is sufficiently similar that you can use one or the other regardless, but the method is quite different – which one has your vote? If you don’t care very much for French knots, try your hand at Colonial knots!
Before we start… here’s a quick tip, which you might find REALLY helpful if you’re struggling with French knots…
French Knot:
Let’s have a look at French knots first, as they are more commonly used. I’m using 4 strands here, so that the knots are big enough for their shape to show clearly.
1 Twist the thread around the needle 3 times:
2 Tighten the thread around the needle and keep it tight with your left hand (or right hand if you’re left-handed), then push the needle down through the fabric 1 strand of fabric away (diagonally) from where you started the stitch. Take care NOT to go through the initial hole, otherwise the knot might get dragged through to the back of the fabric.
Colonial Knot:
Now let’s look at the Colonial knot, which is actually easier to stitch, once you’ve got your head around it (still using 4 strands, here):
1 [Note: the knot on the left is the finished French knot, so that you can compare both knots] For the Colonial knot, you need to create a bridge with the thread, and place the needle under it. That’s the bit that’s most likely to mess with your brain, if you’re used to French knots! Notice how the thread twists to the right rather than the left, so you cannot twist it around the needle. That’s why you’ve got to create the loop first (the “bridge”) THEN put the needle through it. This way, it’s a piece of cake!
2 Then twist the thread around the tip of the needle, once, creating a figure of 8.
3 As we did earlier for a French knot, tighten the thread around the needle and keep it tight with your left hand, while you push the needle down through the fabric just next to where you started the stitch.
Here they are side by side, French knot on the left, and Colonial knot on the right:
You can’t really tell the difference, can you, except that the Colonial knot is possibly slightly neater? Definitely MY favourite! What about you? Let me know how you get on with these pesky knots!
Fancy seeing it stitched in action? Here’s a short video:
Fancy trying out your new skills? Here’s a selection of patterns to do just that:
Shall we recap?
Happy stitching!